Social life in Phanariote Bucharest

Lasting for more than a century, the so-called "Phanariote era" is widely considered not to have been the most glorious period in Romanian history. The word "Phanariote" derives from the name of the Phanar district in Istanbul, which was mostly inhabited by an ethnic Greek community. And it was from among the members of the most prominent Greek families from Phanar that the Ottoman sultans appointed the rulers of Bucharest and Iași at a time when the Romanian countries of Wallachia and Moldavia were under Ottoman control. Phanariote rule began in 1714 in Moldavia and 1716 in Wallachia, and came to an end in 1821, and would involve the Orientalisation of the Danube principalities, something viewed by some commentators as a step backwards.

Despite this, the Phanariote era was not without its merits, and some historians believe it has not been studied enough and that existing research sometimes misrepresents it. This is a view shared by Tudor Dinu, the author of an extensive work in three volumes entitled Bucureștiul fanariot ("Phanariote Bucharest"). He explains:

"It's a highly complex issue and a more nuanced approach is needed. At the time, Bucharest played host to many battles as part of the Russo-Austrian-Turkish wars, so these were already challenging times. On the other hand, it was also a period of extensive development for the city, thanks to the actions of the Phanariote rulers. Indeed, it was during this time that almost the entire city was paved in wood; the first network of fountains was installed, providing the residents of Bucharest with fresh drinking water; and street lighting was introduced, starting with Podul Mogoșoaiei, today's Calea Victoriei. What's more, during this time Bucharest would also become the most important learning centre in all of south-eastern Europe thanks to the establishment of the princely academy of St. Sava."

Although the Phanariote century marked the Orientalisation of Romanian culture, an influence rarely seen in the Romanian lands before then, this period would also be characterised by a process of Westernisation. This phenomenon can be explained by the fact that the Phanariote rulers - all of whom, as mentioned earlier, were of Greek descent - would act as conduits of Italian and, later, French culture in these parts, especially in Bucharest. The historian Tudor Dinu, the author of a book about Bucharest during the Phanariote era, tells us more:

"Among other things, in my research I discovered that it wasn't true that the process of westernisation of the Romanian countries began only after 1821, when Phanariote rule came to an end. In fact, the process began with the first Austrian occupation after 1789 and intensified with the arrival of the Russian troops in Bucharest, who were stationed here between 1806 and 1812. The Phanariotes allowed western culture to infiltrate these parts because their role was also to inform the Ottoman Porte of the intentions of the western powers. Westerners also began to settle in Bucharest in the 18th century, especially Germans, who came not only from Transylvania but also further afield. They made a fundamental contribution to the development of the city, in particular as building entrepreneurs, engineers and architects. It is to them that we owe the construction of Bucharest's first breweries and the city's first hotel. French and Italian people also came to live here at this time, as every distinguished family, every boyar, wanted a French tutor for their children or as a private secretary."

On the subject of breweries and the likes, the historian Tudor Dinu describes in detail in his book what the people of Bucharest would do for entertainment during the 18th century:

"Every day, the people of Bucharest would go to taverns, where they'd see fiddlers perform. Some preferred cafes, where they'd smoke and play billiards, chess or checkers, or watch performances and acrobatics shows.Above all, they would indulge in political gossip. Others went to fairs, where the main entertainment were the swings, which were enjoyed by all the people of Bucharest, both young and old, even the boyars. But perhaps the most popular form of entertainment was a kind of sport that has since completely disappeared and is unknown today. The name of this sport came from the Ottoman term for 'reed'. It involved a kind of face-off between two men on horseback armed with spears, which they would throw at their opponent, who would try to dodge them. It was by no means a gentle sport, being a kind of Ottoman jousting tournament. And, of course, gambling would also become a popular pastime and something against which the Phanariote rulers would fight fiercely, trying to stamp out the practice as it led to the impoverishment of the population."

That said, the authorities did permit some forms of gambling, such as an early form of lottery tickets.