Monasteries in Gorj County

A a look at monasteries in Gorj County, south-western Romania.

Daniel Onea, 10.12.2015, 14:28

There are a few Orthodox monasteries in Gorj County, some of them raised hundreds of years ago, that you must visit. The Polovragi Monastery lies in the East of Gorj County. It started being built in 1505 and was completed over 1699-1700, during the rule of Romanian prince Constantin Brancoveanu. The Tismana Monastery started being built in the 14th century, the church on its premises being surrounded by tall walls. The background colour of the walls is red, the so-called “red of Tismana”, which nobody knows how it was obtained. Then there is the Lainici Monastery situated at the entrance to the pass of the Jiu river.

The Tismana Monastery is situated around 30 km far from the town of Targu Jiu, in an afforested area. It was built within one year and its name is derived from the yew trees formerly covering the entire area. Monk Nicodim, who was canonized due to his merits, used building techniques that were quite special for that time. The church within the monastery is surrounded by strong walls and the access inside is made through a huge wooden gate, as Oana Palos, spokesperson for the Gorj County Council tells us:

“The Tismana Monastery is an architectural gem. A lot of people visit the monastery and the surrounding mountainous area, particularly upon the Assumption of Virgin Mary, when thousands of pilgrims come over.”

The Tismana Monastery is over 600 years-old. Monk Nicodim erected the monastery, but he just painted its inner walls in one colour, ocher, decorating them with floral and geometrical motifs. The first polychrome painting of the monastery was made in the 16th century by Dobromir of Targoviste, a former princely capital. Dobromir used vegetal colours, including Oriental red, today called “red of Tismana”.

Archdeacon Dionita Apostolache, spokesman for the Craiova Archbishopric says that tourists can visit the oldest Orthodox monasteries in Romania in Gorj County:

“The Tismana Monastery was founded by Saint Nicodim of Tismana. This holy establishment was built in the 14th century. Saint Nicodim is considered in the Orthodox monastic tradition as the founder of eremitic monasticism in Oltenia. The Tismana Monastery lying in a beautiful landscape is an attraction for believers who want to pray, but also to admire the beautiful nature all around, such as the yew and horse chestnut forests. The National Mint Museum was laid out in a cave near the Tismana Monastery, where the national treasure of the National Bank of Romania was hidden during World War II. At Tismana, there is also a museum displaying very old artifacts that are unique in this country. From Tismana, which lies at 1000 m altitude, you can walk to the Cioclovina de Sus and Cioclovina de Jos hermitages. The nuns at the Tismana Monastery can also guide you to those places.”

Another landmark of cultural-religious tourism in Gorj County is the Polovragi Orthodox Monastery. The monastery dates back to 1505 and is situated close to the locality of the same name, at the entrance to the Oltet Gorges, separating the Parang Mountains from the Capatanii Mountains. The Polovragi cave lies in the Oltet Gorges too. The cave is nearly 11 km long but only 800 m can be visited. Archdeacon Dionita Apostolache, spokesman for the the Craiova Archbishopric has more:

“The second destination worth visiting is the Polovragi Monastery, which stands in a very beautiful area. Pilgrims can admire the Brancovan style of the monastery, its unique frescoes. The monastery has recently been restored and consecrated.”

Another emblematic monastery in Gorj County is the Lainici Monastery, lying 35 km far from the town of Targu Jiu. The monastery was raised by Monk Nicodim too. The stone or wooden construction lasted until the 18th century as Archdeacon Ionita Apostolache tells us:

“The third destination is the Lainici Monastery situated in the pass of the Jiu river, on the way to the town of Petrosani, a pass conducive to Transylvania. It is a traditional monk monastery. It had an important role especially during the interwar period, when the monks of the Lainici Monastery actively supported the Romanian spirit and fostered Orthodox values and traditions. At the moment, the Lainici Monastery is one of the attractions in the area, also because it shelters the relics of Saint Herodion of Lainici. He was one of the outstanding abbots of that monastery, recently canonized by the Romanian Orthodox Church. At each of the monasteries I presented visitors are given details in a language of international circulation.”

(Translated by Ana Maria Palcu)