Auroch Country

Auroch Country is a unique place in Romania where aurochs are being released into the wild

Daniel Onea, 05.11.2020, 13:00

Today we are visiting a protected natural area, one of the seven ecotourism destinations in Romania. They organize a series of special tours that local nature and history make them unique. You can spend a day at a sheepfold, you can taste the water of a salty spring that has been documented for over 8,000 years, and, of course, you can familiarize yourself with the diversity of species of plants and animals in the Vanatori Neamt Nature Park.

The Auroch Country destination overlaps the park, according to Viorela Chiper, manager of the Auroch Country Association:

“The main protected area is this nature park, the only place in Europe where you can see aurochs in the wild, as well as in captivity. Right now we have about 50 aurochs that roam free, and can be seen in the forest. Generally, aurochs live in herds, so even if only one of them has a GPS collar, we can spot the entire herd. The aurochs that live in semi-captivity are monitored, with a view to being released in the forest. In the Dragos Voda auroch and fauna reserve we have eight of them. It is a unique experience to meet an auroch, to be a few meters away, face to face, with no barrier between you and the largest terrestrial mammal in Europe. Other protected areas are the Silver Forest, which is a centuries old beech forest, and the Bronze Forest, an old oak forest. These two are mentioned in poet Mihai Eminescus poems. There is another very old oak forest, and, more recently, Cuejdel Lake, formed by a landslide. Trees are sticking out of the water, the sight is magnificent.”

The Vanatori Neamt Nature Park rangers can provide you with a unique experience, as we were told by Viorela Chiper:

“You can go look for the aurochs, both in the wild and in semi-captivity, but you have to book it in advance at the visitor center of the park. You can join the rangers to go to the acclimatization range near the center, or go on a trail with ten stops. At the visitor center you can find a collection of plant and animal species from the park, as well as a traditional object exhibition. Recently, we also opened a store with local products. From the visitor center you can take two trails, one of them to the Dragos Voda auroch and fauna reservation. If tourists are not lucky enough to spot the aurochs in the wild, they can see them in this reservation, which is basically a zoo. Other activities can be workshops with local craftsmen. They work with fabrics, with clay, or with wood.”

We asked the director how you can get to know the traditional arts and crafts:

“It depends on the worker. You can go to their households, or you can hold the workshops somewhere else. Among the most beloved activities are pottery, weaving, and whittling. Together with the traditional craftsmen you can get to know the secrets of making these traditional household objects.”

Most accommodation is small in size, which is well suited to the local conditions. The visitor can choose to get accommodation in a more remote area, such as the B&Bs in the Agapia area, or in the surroundings of the town of Targu Neamt. Viorela Chiper, manager of the Auroch Country Association, told us that, after finding a place to stay, you can book one of the packages for tourists:

“You can have breakfast at a sheepfold, where you can see how cheese is made, and how the sheep are milked, you can taste all the products made there. We also organize eco-brunches. They are events to promote the local culture and cuisine. Several locals and lovers of local products prepare special dishes, depending on the season and the locale. Tourists are invited to taste every locally made dish. We also have workshops and visits to tourist objectives around the area of the brunch. The locales are varied, from B&Bs to the Vanatori Neamt Nature Park Visitor Center, in orchards, or in groves.”

At present, they are working on marking bicycle trails, because the area is well suited to all kinds of mountain walks of all difficulties and lengths. At any rate, you should not miss a visit to Neamt Citadel, built between 1375- 1391. It is a medieval fortress that was part of a large complex of fortifications built in Moldavia in the 14th century, when the Ottomans emerged in the area and threatened the country.